In the age of Brooklyn Salsa, Brooklyn Bacon, Brooklyn Ice Cream, Brooklyn Beer, and yes — Brooklyn Compost, it’s increasingly difficult for any new food entrepreneur to claim the “Brooklyn” mantle. One who feels relatively safe doing so is Autumn Stanford of Bed-Stuy’s just-opened Brookyn Kolache Co., who can probably claim she is the first foodie in the borough serving the shop’s namesake treat.
Kolaches (ko-la-chees) are sweet/savory pastries whose origins are Czech, but are most popular among the Czech-American communities of Eastern Texas. They consist of slightly-sweet dough that is baked until crispy-golden-brown on the outside, but still soft and doughy inside. The savory versions come with the fillings stuffed in the middle; the sweet ones have fruit on the top.
Brooklyn Kolache Co.’s versions include the traditional smoked sausage kolaches and sweet cheese/blueberry combos as well as more creative takes (this is Brooklyn, after all) like chorizo, egg and cheese, peanut butter and jelly, and barbacoa barbecued beef.
The savory versions are served hot-out-of-the-oven, and two make for a satisfying lunch (and at $2.25 each, an affordable one). A less greasy, but still delicious alternative to nearby filled-dough purveyors Dough and Scratchbread, their Czech-Texan-Brooklyn treats are a welcome addition to the neighborhood. The as-yet-uncrowded space is also a great potential coffice, as if comes with coffee, WiFi, and a sunny backyard—plus summertime drinks like hibiscus iced tea and cherry limeade.
Brooklyn Kolache Co., 520 DeKalb Ave. at Bedford Ave., 718-398-1111
Ed. Note: You can try Kolaches during the Total Bedford Hill Immersion this Saturday. Cardholders get 1 free with the purchase of any 2.