A view of the water and the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge from the Shore Road walking/bicycle path near the 79th Street pedestrian overpass. Photo: David Chiu
Technically speaking, Bay Ridge, where I’ve lived for most of my life, is not a suburb like you find on Long Island or New Jersey. It isn’t in the middle of nowhere, you don’t need a car to get around, and there is no mall. But if you find yourself in the more cloistered and tranquil parts of the neighborhood, particularly the beautiful older homes near the water on Shore Road, you can’t help but feel like you’re worlds away from Manhattan. Despite the condo-fication of New York, Bay Ridge has maintained a solid working and middle-class vibe.
“I’d played with the idea of moving out of Bay Ridge to go to Manhattan or something like that,” says Allison Robicelli, the co-owner of the renowned cupcake bakery Robicelli’s and a longtime resident of the neighborhood, “but as I’ve watched Brooklyn change, Bay Ridge became more and more appealing. It still feels authentic, and there’s no inevitable feeling of doom that eventually your rent will triple and all the businesses you love will disappear. We’re a great mix of the old New York that’s quickly disappearing, and the new. I can’t think of another place in Brooklyn I’d rather live.”
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- Tanoreen, the popular Middle Eastern restaurant owned by Rawia Bishara on the corner of 76th Street and Third Avenue.
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- It’s amazing how this structure was once the 1,919-seat Bay Ridge Theatre, which was in existence in 1915, according to cinematreasures.org. Sadly this place — on the corner of 72nd Street and Third Avenue, and across the street from me — closed in 1963. It later became a bingo place and now it houses a McDonald’s, a Rite-Aid and a NYSC.
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- Eco Food between 73rd and 74th streets was no match for the more larger Food City supermarket, but in its own way, it also is a neighborhood institution.
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- Ladies and gentleman, Third Avenue along 75th Street. Ahead, you can catch a glimpse of the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge far ahead.
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- It’s now called Met Foodmarkets, but long timers like myself will always remember it as being Food City, this part of the neighborhood’s major supermarket. My childhood is practically tied to that place — memories of sitting on the shopping cart as a toddler with my mom steering it as we navigated through the aisles.
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- Before the popularity of Rite-Aid and Duane Reade, Neugard on the corner of 74th Street and Third Avenue was the local pharmacy on the block. To me, it was a mini-post office: an elderly woman behind the counter would weigh packages and sell stamps.
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- A mural that stands between Russell Pedersen Playground and facing towards Forth Hamilton High School.
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- In the background is Fort Hamilton High School, which would have been my zoned high school had I not gotten accepted into Brooklyn Tech.
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- Of the many places that have come and gone on Third Avenue, the Carvel on the corner of 74th Street and Third Avenue still remains. I remember going out for ice cream there with my family and the neighbor kids.
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- Longbow Pub and Pantry, one of the old-fashioned UK-styled pubs between 73rd and 74th streets on Third Avenue.
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- Before the site became the One Love Animal Hospital, it used to be one of two Kleinfelds, the famous bridal store in the neighborhood. My sister used to work at Kleinfelds, possibly at this location.
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- A vintage fire truck inside the Salty Dog bar between 75th and 76th streets on Third Avenue.
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- The presence of Century 21 looms large in the commercial area of 86th Street between Fourth and Fifth avenues.
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- Shore Road Park
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- Many car dealerships reside in Bay Ridge after 86th Street and Fourth and Fifth avenues.
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- Leo’s Casa Calamari on the corner of 86th Street and 3rd Avenue.
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- The newly opened Coffee Lab between Bay Ridge and Ovington avenues.
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- The newly opened Coffee Lab between Bay Ridge and Ovington avenues.
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- Nordic Delicacies between Bay Ridge Avenue and Ovington Avenue on Third Avenue keep the neighborhood’s Norwegian roots alive.
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- Along Third Avenue between Bay Ridge Avenue and Ovington Avenue are two longstanding stores: Cosentino’s Fish Market and the Anopoli diner.
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- The famous cupcake bakery Robicelli’s on 9009 Fifth Avenue, not far from the 86th street commercial district. Get a chocolate sea salt cupcake while you’re there.
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- A banana nutella cupcake courtesy of Robicelli’s.
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- The Fort Hamilton Post Office on Fifth Avenue and 88th Street.
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- The newly-opened Brooklyn Market on Third Avenue between 81st and 82nd streets (the site was formerly a Blockbuster Video) is a game-changer when it comes to quality, high-end food offerings a la Whole Foods.
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- The first thing you’ll see upon entering Brooklyn Market.
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- The Russell Pedersen Playground on Colonial Road between 83rd and 85th Streets is one of my favorite places to stroll around or sit during a walk in the neighborhood. It’s right in front of Fort Hamilton High School and not far from Shore Road Park.
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- The Russell Pedersen Playground on Colonial Road between 83rd and 85th Streets is one of my favorite places to stroll around or sit during a walk in the neighborhood. It’s right in front of Fort Hamilton High School and not far from Shore Road Park.
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- Caffe Cafe on the corner of 84th Street and Third Avenue was like the Starbucks of the neighborhood long before the coffee chain moved in.
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- Though not of the same stature of say Astoria, Queens, Bay Ridge has a Greek presence typified by some diners and eateries like Somethingreek.
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- One of the many opulent homes in Bay Ridge in the vicinity of Colonial Road, Narrows Avenue, and Shore Road.
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- Wanna view of the water from Shore Road?
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- The view from the 79th Street overpass above. Ahead, you can see the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge. Photo: David Chiu
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- The athletic track on the grounds of Fort Hamilton High School. I used to run on this track in my younger days, but now I just walk around it.
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- Your typical street in Bay Ridge in the vicinity of Shore Road.
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- One of the Bay Ridge homes you’ll find west of 3rd Avenue and in the vicinity Shore Road.
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- A view of the water and the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge from the Shore Road walking/bicycle path near the 79th Street overpass. Photo: David Chiu
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- The Salty Dog on 75th Street and 3rd Avenue — modeled like a typical fire station with the garage door as an entrance. It used to be the ‘Brooklyn Dodger’ sports bar, which was engaged in a legal battle with the Los Angeles Dodgers organization over the name.
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- The immortal Century 21 — the logo is different now from what I used to remember, but it’s imposing presence still remains as THE flagship store for all of Bay Ridge. Photo: David Chiu
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- A red velvet cupcake from Jean Danet Bakery on 75th Street and 5th Avenue.
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- Supposedly, the Three Jolly Pigeons has been around the 1900s and judging by the look inside, you kind of feel like you’re stepping into history — it is almost reminiscent of ‘Cheers’ in capturing that turn of the century atmosphere. But more importantly, it lacks the pretentiousness of today’s bar scene.
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- The famous ‘gingerbread house’ on 82nd Street and Narrows Avenue, whose unique, fairy tale-like architecture lives up to its nickname. Photo: David Chiu
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- It’s now a Chase bank, but a long time ago, it used to be Lincoln Savings Bank (the image of Lincoln on the top of the building’s facade) still remains. Many times I accompanied my parents on weekend visits to this bank for their transactions — and if I’m lucky, it might include a visit downstairs to the safe deposit room. It probably remains the largest bank I’ve ever been inside of.
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- When it comes to pizza in Bay Ridge for me, it’s Vesuvios between 73rd Street and Third Avenue. It looks like an expansive family-style Italian restaurant, but back then, it was just your average small pizzeria. But what hasn’t changed is the pizza, which is always good, especially the Sicilian slices. It also helps that it’s just a block away from where I live.
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- Upon entering the Lincoln Savings Bank (now chase), you’ll immediately notice the large murals on the wall depicting aspects of Honest Abe’s life. Fortunately, they’re still around.
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- I never realized why that is, but if you walk along 75th Street between 3rd and 6th avenues, you’ll notice many medical offices inside these brownstones. It’s almost like the Diamond District in midtown or when 8th Street in the West Village was like the shoe capital of the world.
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- Leske’s Bakery has been a neighborhood institution for as long as I lived in Bay Ridge. I can still remember going in there for the butter cookies and the French breads. One of the things I remember as a kid was watching out the folks would tie the boxes with the string dangling from above — I thought that was so cool. It’s good to know the place is still around with the new ownership.
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- It doesn’t get more classic than a BLT with a side order of fries at Mike’s Hinsch’s (I’m still calling it Hinsch’s). Photo: David Chius
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- The interior of Mike’s Hinsch’s diner (formerly known as just Hinsch’s) on 85th Street and Fifth Avenue). It looks different now than it had when I used to frequent there with my family, but the setup is the same. Back in the day, I would go there for something like a BLT or a vanilla milkshake.
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- Inside the cozy and intimate confines Eastern European restaurant Polonica, which has been in Bay Ridge for about 20 years.
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- A combination platter of boiled pierogies, stuffed cabbage and fried kielbasa at Polonica on 72nd Street and 3rd Avenue in Bay Ridge.
While geographically it might seem tucked away from the rest of the city, Bay Ridge has links to a broader pop culture, first and foremost thanks to the 1977 blockbuster disco movie Saturday Night Fever starring John Travolta. On TV, Mad Men‘s Peggy Olson (played by Elisabeth Moss) hails from the neighborhood (“I’m from Bay Ridge. We have manners!”). Other famous folks from the area include Poison guitarist CC Deville, Brooklyn Dodgers players Pee Wee Reese and Duke Snider, financial journalist Maria Bartiromo, and author Hubert Selby. “Of course, I’d heard about Bay Ridge for years—it was home to the legendary metal club L’Amour!” says writer Katherine Turman. “I moved here for metal as well. I was deep in the middle of working with my co-author Jon Wiederhorn on our book Louder Than Hell…so I ended up renting an apartment from him in the Ridge. Now, although our book has been out (and successful!) since May 2013, I’m still in the hood!”
Bay Ridge has been a distinct settlement since 1652, when the land was purchased by the Dutch West India Company from the Nyack Indians. The neighborhood, nicknamed “the gold coast,” though mostly by realtors, has been long known for being predominantly Italian, Irish and Norwegian, but in the last 25 to 30 years, it has experienced an influx of Asian, Eastern European, Hispanic and Arabic people as well.
“What I love most is the balance of this diverse melting pot of cultures, but with a small town feeling, in close proximity to the big city,” says Rawia Bishara, the owner of the popular Middle Eastern restaurant Tanoreen and author of the cookbook Olives, Lemons & Za’atar: The Best Middle Eastern Home. She’s been a Bay Ridge resident since her arrival in America in 1974. “You start to frequent the same businesses, people begin to learn your name, friends drop in for coffee. My children were both born and raised here so through their schooling and our businesses and work we came to know a lot of the faces and places of the neighborhood.”
The Russell Pedersen Playground on Colonial Road between 83rd and 85th Streets is one of my favorite places to stroll around or sit during a walk in the neighborhood. It’s right in front of Fort Hamilton High School and not far from Shore Road Park. Photo: David Chiu
Unlike some other neighborhoods, Bay Ridge has been immune to significant gentrification, so far, although there has been a growth of specialty shops and eateries that line Third and Fifth avenues. Friends and colleagues who are in in their 30s and 40s are now taking up residency here. “I had grown up in Park Slope, and watched the neighborhood change and rise out of our price range,” says recently-transplanted resident Alex Damashek, the executive director of Move Forward Music, an artist management and concert promotions company in Brooklyn, “but also the fact that my wife is from New Jersey, because we were looking for a rare New York compromise where we could have some space but still live in Brooklyn. Bay Ridge seemed to have the goods. And once we started exploring the neighborhood and all the different restaurants and shops, we really felt like we’d found the right place for us.”
It’s no surprise that the high quality of life, low crime and neighborliness in Bay Ridge have resulted in longtime residents and businesses. As rents grow pricier around the city it seems like only a matter of time before young professionals looking for an inexpensive place to live in or raise a family will flock here. I wouldn’t call it the “next Williamsburg,” as one recent article speculated, but who knows in 10 to 20 years from now. Here’s what to check out when you visit:
Where to Eat
It doesn’t get more classic than a BLT with a side order of fries at Mike’s Hinsch’s (I’m still calling it Hinsch’s). Photo: David Chius
There are plenty of different restaurants of all stripes in Bay Ridge: Italian, Mexican, Spanish, Japanese, Chinese, Middle Eastern and Eastern European–there’s even a place that sells schnitzel. Naturally there are also several diners like Hinsch’s (now called Mike’s Hinsch’s, 8518 5th Ave., 855-446-7247), which I vividly remember visiting with my family for BLTs and milkshakes, back in the day. A recent discovery I’ve made is the Eastern European restaurant Polonica, (7214 3rd Ave. # A, 718-630-5805), which has been around for over 20 years. It may look small on the inside, but the combination platter of kielbasa, stuffed cabbage and pierogies is large on the stomach. And of course, there’s Tanoreen (7523 3rd Ave., 718-748-5600), the jewel of Middle Eastern restaurants. As for pizza, I always gravitate towards Vesuvio (7305 3rd Ave., 718-745-0222), especially for a Sicilian slice fresh out of the oven.
Allison’s pick: Tuscany Grill (8620 3rd Ave., 718-921-5633), hands down my favorite date-night restaurant. The only place I know of to get grilled pizza (yes, it’s excellent). It’s rustic Italian at its most comforting.
Katherine’s pick: If I’m missing California, Ho’Brah (8618 3rd Ave., 718-680-8226) is the perfect food and drink antidote. An authentic taco joint, I dig the Classic Cali taco (goes without saying!) with panko-crusted cod and chile-lime sour cream and a jalapeño margarita.
Alex’s picks: Grand Sichuan House (8701 5th Ave., 718-680-8887): best Chinese, string beans with minced pork, beef with cumin, pretty much anything. Leo’s Casa Calamari (8602 3rd Ave., 718-921-1900): best (you guessed it) fried calamari, also maybe tied for best pizza. Anopoli Ice Cream Parlor and Family Restaurant (6920 3rd Ave., 718-748-3863): vanilla egg creams, cherry lime rickies, homemade ice cream, and great diner food.
Rawia’s picks: Lately I have been going to Ponte Vecchio (8810 4th Ave., 718-238-6449) for Italian and enjoy it. My daughter is a fan of the baked spaghetti at Areo (8424 3rd Ave., 718-238-0079 ) and anything at Petit Oven (276 Bay Ridge Ave., 718-833-3443), especially the fried oysters when they’re on the menu.
Where to Get Caffeinated
The newly-opened Coffee Lab between Bay Ridge and Ovington avenues. Photo: David Chiu
Unlike Williamsburg or Greenpoint, you’re not going to find many niche cafes in Bay Ridge, although some have sprouted up, like the newly-opened Coffee Lab (6903 3rd Ave., 646-801-8321). Another place that stands out for me is Caffe Cafe (401 3rd Ave., 718-748-8700), where it’s nice to sit outside during warmer days.
Allison’s pick: We (Robicelli’s) brought Stumptown to the neighborhood last November, and still we only serve drip. Paneantico (9124 3rd Ave, 718-680-2347) makes a pretty nice latte if you’re up on Third Avenue.
Katherine’s pick: My favorite latte is at Jean Danet Pastry (7526 5th Ave., 718-836-7566)…with cinnamon on top. To go on the way to the subway on weekdays, to stay on weekends and read The New York Times. They also have a brick oven pizza that’s thin and delicious. So I can start with coffee and maybe a fudgy rocky road brownie, then if I linger there long enough, I can move into beer and pizza.
Alex’s pick: Chai chargers at Caffe Cafe
Rawia’s picks: Robicelli’s bakery (9009 5th Ave., 917-509-6048) is off the hook for cupcakes and treats, and they serve Stumptown coffee which is really good. Also, the Greek-style frappe at Omonia (7612 3rd Ave., 718-491-1435) is great–a chilled coffee usually made with instant coffee in a shaker with water and ice with a thick foam top. It’s big in Greek coffee culture.
Where to Drink
Supposedly, the Three Jolly Pigeons has been around since the 1900s and judging by the look inside, you kind of feel like you’re stepping into history — it is almost reminiscent of ‘Cheers’ in capturing that turn of the century atmosphere. But more importantly, it lacks the pretentiousness of today’s bar scene.
A friend at work who lived in Connecticut once remarked that there’s a bar on every block in Bay Ridge. She’s totally right: it’s impossible to stay dry in the neighborhood, though from my observations, the bar scene caters more to the old-timers, working class and professional folks than a young, singles crowd. Three Jolly Pigeons (6802 3rd Ave., 718-745-9350), reportedly one of the oldest drinking establishments in the neighborhood, has a cozy vibe a la Cheers. And Longbow Pub & Pantry (7316 3rd Ave., 718-238-7468) has a very extensive beer menu and serves traditional English foods like fish and chips and Welsh rarebit.
Allison’s pick: Lock Yard (9221 5th Ave,. 718-333-5282): This beer garden/hot dog joint has become “our” bar– everything about it is spectacular, from the rotating beer list, to the ’90s playlist, to the exceptional lobster rolls and fried pickles.
Katherine’s pick: The Owl’s Head (479 74th St., 718-680-2436) wine bar is my go-to place, and I bring every visitor to the Ridge there. Owner John Avelluto went to high school in Bay Ridge, and is super invested in bringing great wine, food and art into the neighborhood.
Alex’s picks: Schnitzel Haus (7319 5th Ave., 718-836-5600): really good selection of German beer, also really solid food; JJ Bubbles (7912 3rd Ave.): good juke box.
Rawia’s pick: We are partial to our neighbors at the Salty Dog (7509 3rd Ave., 718-238-0030). It’s a great venue to watch sports being that they have 20 TVs. It’s our favorite neighborhood bar.
Where to Shop
The immortal Century 21 — the logo is different now from what I used to remember, but it’s imposing presence still remains as THE flagship store for all of Bay Ridge. Photo: David Chiu
For as long as I have lived in Bay Ridge, the Century 21 department store (472 86th St., 718-748-3266) in the 86th street commercial district has dominated the entire block.
As far as food shopping goes, I recently discovered the new Brooklyn Market (8102 3rd Ave., 718-567-8600) which is a cross between Whole Foods and the Park Slope Co-op in that its offerings are very wide and eclectic, from organic foods to imported Italian items. Nordic Delicacies (6909 3rd Ave., 718- 748-1874) keeps the neighborhood’s old Norwegian roots alive with its Scandinavian foods. And it’s comforting to know that Leske’s Bakery (7612 5th Ave., 718-680-2323) is still around, bringing back memories of butter cookies from my youth.
Allison’s pick: Circa Vintage Boutique (276 88th St., 917-674-9631) is where I do all my gift shopping, and the owner is amazing. She knows I collect old cookbooks and kitchen equipment, so any time she comes across something she thinks I’ll like, I get a FB note. How sweet is that?
Katherine’s picks: Lola’s Boutique (8503 3rd Ave., 718-745-4300) on 3rd is good for cute, trendy and not-too-expensive gifts of jewelry and accessories. For gourmet Italian foodstuffs, ALC Italian Grocery(8613 3rd Ave, 718-836-3200) is the bomb, and free wine-tastings at Long’s Liquors (7917 5th Ave., 718-748-6505) have encouraged purchases!
Alex’s pick: We call it Century’s out here.
Rawia’s picks: We shop at Century 21 all the time because, let’s face it, they have good deals and you can almost always find something. Plus we get a lot of overseas house guests and they love it there for a one-stop shop. We also buy our books local. The BookMark Shoppe (8415 3rd Ave., 718-833-5115) can order any title you want.
Where to Stroll
This is the famous ‘gingerbread house’ on 82nd Street and Narrows Avenue, whose unique, fairy tale-like architecture lives up to its nickname. I probably passed by this place many times in my walks that I never really took notice of it until it had been written about online. According to a Curbed article in 2013, the owners were looking to sell the place for $12 million. Photo: David Chiu
Hands down the best place to take a walk in the neighborhood is Shore Road Park and Parkway. In addition to the park itself, there’s a pedestrian/bike path nearby where you take in the view of the water and the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge. While you’re there, you can also see all the beautiful and very expensive homes along the way–and don’t forget to take a glimpse the famous “gingerbread house” on 82nd Street and Narrows Avenue.
Allison’s pick: Shore Road is probably the best place to go running if you’re looking for a challenge, since it’s all hills. But if you’re looking for something flat and beautiful, try the path directly next to the water.
Katherine’s pick: I enjoy a weekend stroll down both Third and Fifth avenues, but a walk along the water to view the Verrazano and passing boats is exhilarating and mandatory.
Alex’s picks: I love to stroll down 3rd Avenue on a Sunday and do some food shopping. First, I’ll get a canoli and a cappuccino from Monaco’s (8511 3rd Ave, 347-497-4409), then continue to Artisan Food Valley (9204 3rd Ave., 718-513-0071) to buy some prosciutto and sopressata. Maybe on the way back I’ll pick up a 1/2 pound of imported feta from A&S Greek specialty store (7918 5th Ave. 718-833-1307), or a shoulder of freshly butchered lamb at Bay Root Meats (7813 5th Ave., 718-238-7900).
Rawia’s pick: Anywhere along Third Avenue, and of course the beautiful promenade that we are so lucky to have on Shore Road. My children jog and cycle on the bike path often when the weather is nice.
How to Get There
The R train is the only line that runs through Bay Ridge along Fourth Avenue–from the Bay Ridge Ave. station on 69th, to Bay Ridge-95th Street, the last stop of the R. The commute to midtown Manhattan from Bay Ridge by subway is about 45-50 minutes. It’s the tradeoff for living in such a perfect corner of New York City.
An excellent, in-depth profile of the neighborhood – I live and work in Bay Ridge, and feel this really gave a well-rounded shapshot of the place.
I am seeking lesbian socializing in Bay Ridge…Any groups?
That is where my husband and I grew up! We both attended Fort Hamilton High School when it was still a “baby”. Graduated in 1952 and 1954! He lived in a Brownstone on 55th Street, I lived in a six family apartment house on 59th Street! We married in Our Lady Of Perpetual Help Church on Fifth Avenue.
Then we decided to make our lives here on Long Island and have been here ever since 1956. Our children were born on LI too.
Nice article about where I was born and spent the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s there. A lot has changed…there used to be a pizza place evey other block, great candy and soda fountains and the old store fronts have been “updated” with a lot less character. Also, there was a sizable Arabic (Syrian & Lebanese) population back then too.
Thanks for stirring up memories of a great childhood.
Love, love Bay Ridge. Lived there and raised my four children there. I’m 80 now and retired to Florida, but I miss Bay Ridge, just can’t afford it anymore.
Excellent profile of the neighborhood ! Thanks
Went to Fontbonne Hall Academy, which is on Shore Road & Ninety Ninth Street, as close you can possibly be on Shore Road to the Verrazano Bridge……..What a sight to see every morning……..An unforgettable memory….!!!
A much-recommended addition to the “Where to drink” part would be Delia’s Lounge on the 3rd ave. It has such a cozy & intimate vibe. The Martinis & cocktails there are fabulous.