New York has become quite the pizza snob’s paradise lately, what with all the custom-made wood-fired ovens, truffled thin-crusts, and six-week-only ramp-topped pizzas. So perhaps it was only a matter of time until someone opened the ultimate anti-pizza-snob pizzeria. Longtime pizza blogger Adam Kuban (of Slice and Serious Eats) recently turned his hands to making pies, first at Paulie Gee’s in Greenpoint, and now at his own pop-up shop, Margot’s Pizza. For his latest effort, Kuban draws his inspiration not from the trattorias of Naples, but the dive bars of New Jersey.
Kuban’s focus in on “bar pizza,” the type of greasy, thin-crust, beer-soaking pie found at neighborhood bars throughout the Northeast. Places like Star Tavern in Orange, New Jersey; Colony Grill in Stamford, Connecticut; and Lee’s Tavern on Staten Island have drawn loyal followings for their bar pizzas, and Kuban set out to replicate that style. As he describes it, bar pizza should be very thin crusted, decidedly crispy, and well-done but not burned. It resembles a classic New York slice in the focus on lots of mozz and olive oil, but on an almost cracker-like crust. After years of experimentation, Kuban has set up shop at the excellent Emily’s pizzeria in Clinton Hill, whose owners were nice enough to let him sling his bar pies on Saturday afternoons once every few weeks, when the restaurant is normally closed.
A green pepper and pepperoni clad bar pizza. Photo: Margot’s
Here’s how it works: sign up for Margot’s mailing list to be alerted when the next pop-up will occur. This past Saturday’s debut sold out quickly (I know, I know, you can’t do anything in this town without getting on a waiting list). If you’re lucky enough to nab a seat, $25 gets you one of Emily’s signature salads along with one of four pies: the basic Margo-rita, the truffle-y Funghitown, a classic pepperoni, or the Love Supreme, topped with sausage, diced green pepper, shaved red onion, oregano, and black pepper. The portion size is advertised as “large enough to share but small enough you could house one yourself” and that’s about accurate. (more…)
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