05/09/16 10:52am
2016-05-02 19.37.38

Coppelia hides in plain sight behind green plywood. Photo: Kenneth R. Rosen

The Lobster Shift is a monthly column by Kenneth R. Rosen that explores the city’s all-night eateries and their inhabitants.

All that’s good in New York is hidden behind scaffolding. This holds true for theaters, shops and eateries alike. Such is the case with Coppelia.

On 14th Street, between 8th and 9th Avenues, the pan-Latin diner is open twenty-four-seven and is in every way, with the slight exception of the soft-hued pastels and stylish tiling, no-nonsense. It offers Cuban diner stalwarts on plain white dishes with kitchen side towels for napkins. Order the pan con lechon ($9.95) and you get a plate with roasted pork, chicharron, picked red onion and chipotle mayo held between two slices of bread, no garnish, no salad, no fries or soup. Everything that you ordered and nothing more. An agreeable concision. On a recent Tuesday night I tried the tallarin verde ($18.95), fettuccine in a creamy basil sauce topped with cotija cheese and pisco-glazed shrimp, and it came piled on a plate, nothing more, nothing less.  (more…)

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10/09/13 10:07am
Tue October 15, 2013

photo (35)When you eat or drink at Diner, Marlow and Sons or Romans there’s an almost obsessive hand-crafted quality to the food. The ketchup and mustard that comes with a Diner burger is house made, as are the bitters that go into your Manhattan and the butter on your bread, which was baked by She Wolf Bakery, which began as an experiment, making bread at Romans for staff meals. She Wolf now bakes daily in a commissary kitchen, supplying bread to all the restaurants and to Marlow and Daughters. Or, order online to pick up daily at Romans, or on Tuesday evenings at Achilles Heel in Greenpoint. After claiming a loaf in Greenpoint last night I went to Eastern District and bought a burrata and a soft, gooey wedge of Bent River, a Camembert-like cheese from Minnesota. My husband and I were supposed to go out to dinner, so I thought I’d save it for lunch today. Instead, we stood in the kitchen and devoured more than half the loaf on the spot. The She Wolf sourdough ($6) is chewy and tangy with a gorgeous crust–they only deliver 30 loaves a week to Achilles Heel, so sign up for your loaf now. –A.G.